Hanoi- last few days in Vietnam

As our bus from Hue finally reached the famous old quarter in Hanoi, I was flooded with memories of my trip here in 2012 with trippr group. My hostel was a 2 km walk from where the bus dropped us and this walk proved that nothing had changed in this old quarter of the city. Streets named after the merchandise being sold there, overhanging yellow roofs shadowing part of the streets and displaying names of the shops, people crowding below these roofs on small stools drinking coffee or famous Bia Hoi or eating Pho and many hawkers selling fresh sizzling food items. Smells of beer, food, spices and many other unrecognizable merchandise mingles with the smell of cigarettes that so many people smoke sitting idly. There's a Sunday like feel almost every day in this part of the town. This city is vastly different from Ho Chi Minh city, in culture, food, accent and architecture. While Ho Chi Minh is crowded by glass buildings and posh hotels, Hanoi's old quarter is crowded by small old buildings with small alleys to enter and narrow streets. While Ho Chi Minh is more commercial, Hanoi is much more cultural. While Hanoi is as busy as Ho Chi Minh, this city has a grace to it, almost elegant and exotic!

Wandering through the streets, its very easy to get lost. Almost all streets look alike, almost all corners are same, almost all Bia Hoi joints look familiar and every street is a busy street!
After spending a few hours though, a map in hand, I got my bearings and was able to find my way towards Hoan Kiem Lake. The lake has an island in the middle with a beautiful structure on it. The side-walk around the lake is crowded by tourists and locals alike, most of them enjoying ice-cream. At one corner of the lake is a famous ship-shaped building hosting various cafes and restaurants on each of its five levels. From there, tourists enjoy the view of the busy street below or the calm waters of the central lake while sipping coffee or a beer.

The famous ship-shaped building

View from one of the cafes in the building

Hoan Kiem lake in the night

One thing, different from my last visit here in September 2012, was the temperature. It was much colder, 8 during the day and soon I began to feel it. So I decided to head to the market street to buy a decent jacket, just a few minutes from the lake. As I walked through the market street, my each gaze towards the shops attracted pleas from owners "very cheap", "you want?", "how much do you pay?" etc. Nodding and smiling in courtesy at first and then just ignoring the repeated pleas, I continued my way till the end of the street. The street and the market are filled with all varieties of goods. First section may be for the clothes and jackets, then food and spices, further on there will be fruits, sports shops, shoes, make up boxes, alcohol, souvenirs, art work and so on.

Art shop

Clothing

Souvenirs

A typical street in Hanoi

Soon, I forgot my initial objective of finding a jacket and was lost in the colors, aromas and variety in the market and the chaos on the street!
No visit to Hanoi is complete without going to a Bia Hoi place and for more authentic experience, be ready to walk a little to find a place only with locals. I found one and saw a look of surprise on owner's face as perhaps not many tourists go there. As I sat down on a free small stool, my knees almost touching the floor, the owner brought me a glass of fresh Bia Hoi. The place was flocked only by locals (except me). Those present were families, college going kids, colleagues at work. As the evening wore on, the place became more and more crowded. Soon three of owner's daughters began to serve as well and two of his sons were taking care of the motor-bikes for the customers, valet-parking. There was loud discussions about the day at work, or may be politics, laughter at various tables, at a random table a guy would make an excuse to go home but his friends would force him to sit back and drink more. It was a busy place and the owner and his family would run back and forth from the Bia Hoi containers to various tables, removing empty glasses from the tables and replacing them with the filled ones! What felt like a noisy place at first, made me almost go into the trance and I started to enjoy myself. I must have spent at least a couple of hours there, doing nothing, just observing! The experience was something that is very difficult to write down or explain and one should try it out for himself.

Bia Hoi place

I loved this city and did not want to leave it. I spent more than five days here and though I saw a couple of museums and went to a few cosmopolitan pubs, these were not the highlights. The real feel of the city is in wandering aimlessly through the exotic streets of old quarter, eating street food, buying from cheap local market, drinking Bia Hoi and observing the busy life through laid back eyes!

As my last day in Vietnam arrived, I felt it arrived too soon and I started to feel an urge to stay more. But I knew this was not going to be my last visit here and I would definitely visit this country again! This country was about speed and now I was going to its neighbor Laos which is known for its slow pace. With a heavy heart and load full of brilliant memories I said my goodbye to the city of pace, culture, food and amazing people and hopped on my bus to Laos!

A day in the imperial city of Hue

Palaces, temples, pagodas, royal tombs, culture and cuisine. This is what Hue is famous for and attracts numerous tourists every year.
Our bus from Hoi An took about 4 hours to reach Hue and immediately we were surrounded by touts telling us about cheap hotels. Checking into the cheapest hotel we could find, we set off on foot to explore the town in the evening. You are always hungry in Vietnam and so first thing we found was a decent restaurant serving vegetarian food. The restaurant had an imperial splendour and food served was straight out of royal cuisine.
The famous Perfume River splits the city in two and we headed towards it. Soon we reached a busy bridge which takes the folks to the other side that houses the famous Citadel and the Imperial Palace within.  The river itself has a vast bank and a strong current. Crossing the bridge and taking the street to the left we saw a bright yellow light illuminating a stone structure and realised that it was the famous Citadel. Crossing a very small bridge we passed under the Citadel entrance. Inside was a tar road running in the Citadel and a few vehicles. Just near the entrance were a few cannons protecting the imperial walls and peace within (well as in turned out, not in reality). In the centre was a big tiled square crowded by kids skating. There were a few people renting out the skating shoes surrounded by the new –comers. We had to watch our way as we traded through this crowd. Continuing on the street within we came across a gate which seemed to be an entrance to Imperial Palace, but it was of course closed since it was past evening. So we took a U-turn and headed back to our hotel.

Entrance to the Citadel

Citadel Centre

Perfume river

The next morning we rented a cycle for a dollar and went to the Citadel once again. The main Citadel is surrounded by a moat in which water flows from the Perfume River, providing first level of defence. The whole Citadel and Imperial palace within were constructed by kings of Nguyen dynasty. Imperial palace is kind of a Citadel within a Citadel. The entrance to imperial palace is USD 5 which includes entire of this inner Citadel (or whatever is left of it after the war) and the museum. Imperial city served as a seat for kings of Nguyen Dynasty. There were palaces, houses and gardens for the royal family. Unfortunately, the most structures of this imperial city were destroyed during the war and only structure remaining is Thai Hoa Palace, a coronation hall. Its roof structure is interesting having two roofs to allow rain water to drain off. There are dragons on the top of the roof. Within are decorated pillars and a small gold plated throne which would have served as a seat for the kings during ceremonies. It’s quite beautiful within, but unfortunately no photographs are allowed here. As you exit the back door of this palace you can see a small documentary digitally recreating the whole imperial city.
Famous Chinese legend of Horse-dragon is present everywhere.

One of the entrance gates to the palace

Thai Hoa Palace

Dragons

Further out are the remains of what used to be the Forbidden palace. Forbidden palace was the residence for the king and no one was allowed inside except for royal family and eunuchs who were the servants, thereby possessing no threat to his rule. On the left is a hall which gives people opportunity to wear royal costume and sit on the throne. On the right is another hall which showcases actual clothes used by the royal family.
Famous Chinese legend of Horse-dragon is present everywhere. Statues in the square, on roof-tops or paintings on the ceilings and the wall. It was considered to be one of the most powerful force used by old emperors by giving the horse powers of a dragon.

Horse-dragon

Dressing up the royal clothes

Royal clothes used by kings

Ruins of forbidden city

Ruins of forbidden city

The Imperial palace is huge but as most of it is destroyed there is not really much to do here, other than walking through the ruins and taking photos. Occasionally you will come across workers who are trying to bring the palace to its former glory. The path leads out of another door and once again we were in the outer Citadel. Outside, we went to a museum which has moderate collection of royal clothes, jewelry, pots and arms.
We got our royal lunch at yet another vegetarian restaurant and continued our ride through the afternoon heat to Tu Duc tombs. It was a tiring 7 km ride from the city centre and the road was not flat. As we neared the entrance, the streets became more crowded with road-side shops selling antiques and incense sticks. Sweating our way through, we reached the entrance and parked our cycles for VND 5,000. The entrance to the tombs was VND 80,000. “Constructed from 1864 to 1867, the complex served as a second Imperial City where the Emperor went for "working vacations". Tu Duc's contemplative nature and poetic spirit is reflected in the landscape and arrangement of the 50 buildings that at one time stood here. A vast, sprawling complex set around a lake, with wooden pavilions and tombs and temples dedicated to wives and favored courtesans (Tu Duc had 104 to choose from). The courtesans' quarters are in ruins, with only outlines and crumbling walls left amid waves of overgrown grass and silence, but other areas are stunningly well-preserved. The Emperor's tomb itself, tucked away in the back, is surprisingly modest - the final courtyard is nearly empty with just a stone coffin in the middle.” (Courtesy: Wikitravel)

Courtesan's quarters 

A temple dedicated to Tu Duc

Elephant guarding the main tomb

Soldiers too

The Tomb

This was his wife's tomb

We rode back in the hotel with just 30 minutes to spare before our bus to the Hanoi left. It was a short time in this city, but I think it was quite enough. In just a day you can enjoy the royal palace, royal tombs and royal cuisine!

Into the past, historic city of Hoi An

Hoi An is situated on the East coast of Vietnam and comes in the central zone. Even though it is situated on coast, beach is definitely not the main attraction there. No, it is more famous as a historically elegant architecture along the banks of Bon river.
My bus from Mui Ne was supposed to take 16 hours to reach Hoi An, but it took 24 hours instead, thanks to multiple breakdowns. As my bus finally entered the age-old town, it was almost entering into past. There were no tall, modern buildings. Only small houses which seem to be at least a century old, with many lanterns hanging on the ropes on the streets. The sides of the street were lines with many cafes as is the case with rest of Vietnam, many of which selling beer as cheap as for VND 3,000! I met my travel companion, Josette, at the homestay and we started off to explore the town. Our homestay was in the center of the city and it took us about 10 minutes to enter the famous old town, which lies along the river. There are many old monuments here, such as old houses, old assembly halls, a Japanese covered bridge and many temples and pagodas. Entrance ticket of VND 100,000 allows you to visit 5 of them. However, most places don't ask for tickets and you may leave the town with a few tickets still unused.
The river is not too big, but big enough to support many boats that offer rides to tourists. There are a few bridges that take you to small islets on the river or greater Hoi An. As you enter the old town and walk along the river, the atmosphere is festival like. It is thronged with tourists, and perhaps you will see more foreign faces than locals. Yet, the place retains its historic importance and old charm. It's almost like going back in time and you can imagine how the place would have been a few centuries ago. The roads might have been cobblestones instead of tar, there would have been walkers and carts instead of moto-bikes, people would have been wearing traditional Vietnamese clothes (women, wearing the same conical hats as today) and there would have been more royal people around instead of cafes, bars and souvenir shops. But as I mentioned, there's something about the place, that, in spite of so many things changing, has still retained the old charm. And this charm is what tourists flock the town for, both foreigners and Vietnamese alike.

Old town

Lanterns

The river

We entered the Japanese covered bridge, which is probably the symbol of the town. It was constructed by Japanese before they left the town as early as in 1600's. There are dog statues and pig statues at each end serving sentries.

Japanese covered bridge

We continued the walk through the town and reached another famous piece of architecture, Tan Ky house. About 5 generation of the current family have lived in this house. As we entered the house and presented our ticket, we were greeted by a family member who gave us a cup of tea and explained a little bit of history about the house, at times pointing at the ceiling or columns to show how Japanese or Chinese architecture was incorporated in this house. There are a few poems written in Chinese on the columns and many photos of people who have lived in this house. Its not the biggest of the structure, but worth a visit.

Inside the house

Japanese inspired ceiling

From the outside

On the road we visited many other houses, museums, temples and assembly halls, each carrying different and interesting history and significance.

As you walk through the town, small speakers on the poles play out instrumental music, which goes well with the place. The night adds a different flavor to the atmosphere. Lanterns are lit and throw different colors according to the canvas they are carrying. Little girls sell small candles which float on the river bank. The river itself reflects every light in its dark waters, creating a magical world. Japanese bridge changes colors according to different lights thrown on it by various bulbs below. There are flashes everywhere with people posing for the camera. Streets become walking zones and there are no more moto-bikes you need to worry about. The town is more beautiful in the night than in any time of the day. You can not leave this town without doing a night walk along the edge of the river!

Start of the evening

Lighting it up!

Lanterns

Japanese bridge, night view

The town

Surfer's town of Mui Ne

Mui Ne is located on the East coast of Vietnam, about 3.5 hrs South-East of Dalat. If you are coming from Saigon, you are better off visiting Mui Ne first and then to Dalat. However, Mui Ne is Backpacker's favorite and hence make sure to book your stay well in advance, especially if you are a solo backpacker. Bus from Dalat costs about USD 7 (lesser if its not a holiday season).
My bus started early in the morning at around 7 AM stopping at many hotels to pick up the travelers. Within 2 hours or so, we had descended a couple of mountains to leave the highlands behind us and we hit the flat road once again. About an hour from Mui Ne, you get the first glimpse of South China Sea, which borders east of Vietnam. The skies were clear and water looked stunningly blue. Closer to the town you get a desert-like feel with white sand dunes on each side of the road and red canyon like structure every now and then. The Sea appears again on the left side of the road and continues till you reach the town. Blue skies, blue water! As you get closer to the town the blue sky is dotted with kites of various colors and the blue water is dotted with kite-surfers, flying fast on the water, jumping every now and then.
Our bus stopped at the main street, which crowded by hotels, cafes and surf shops. My hostel, Mui Ne Backpacker's hostel was only 300 mtrs from where the bus stopped. The hostel is run by a friendly Australian. It is very clean, has a swimming pool and free lounge chairs facing the ocean. It costs USD 10 per night in a dormitory. The ocean here is not calm and winds are really strong. But lounge chairs are perfect to sit and hear it roar and read a book or enjoy a drink.

Lounge chairs

Watching the surfers

It is possible to get surfing lessons which costs about USD 50 per hour. The cafes nearby are expensive and have menus written in Vietnamese, English and Russian, owing to a large Russian community settled here. If you go a little north, about 1 km, you will find cheaper restaurants and good food.

I met a few backpackers there and we rented a Jeep to go to Sand dunes. About USD 8 per person and you can go to Fairy stream, fishing village, white sand dune and red sand dunes. Fairy stream is about 5 kms from the center and is a small water stream which is at the most knee deep. It runs through bamboo forests and red canyons. We walked through the stream for a while enjoying the surroundings, before the water became too deep and we decided to turn back.

Fairy stream

Passing through the Canyons

We took a brief stop at the fishing village. The view from the street was simply stunning. Hundreds of small boats of different colors were anchored in the water. The sun shown the water very clear. And the boats, with no activity, seemed almost solemn and unchanging, as if they were meant to be there!

I love it!

However, too soon our driver asked us to get back into the jeep. Our faces dejected, we sat back and headed onward to the white sand dunes. White sand dunes are about 35 kms from the town and on the way you pass red sand dunes, which are about 11 kms from the town. The entrance to white sand dunes is VND 10,000 and there you will be immediately approached by kids offering a 4wd ride or a slide down the sand dunes. The engine of these vehicles is not very powerful and more often than not you will get stuck in the sand. You are better off on your foot! Its a great expanse of the dunes and you can walk as much as you want. Running down the dunes is really fun, but climbing back again requires patience and lot of energy. As you climb the dunes, the wind is uncontrollably strong and flying sand particles sting the naked body parts, especially legs if you are wearing shorts. Its advisable to wear full pants and full sleeve shirts. Also, sun-glasses are preferable to protect the eyes. In spite of strong wind and stinging sand particles, the feeling there is quite remarkable. This is something you will never imagine to be in Vietnam. It's like a mini desert. White sands with blue skies at the backdrop are like a paradise for a  photographer!

White sand dunes

We left the dunes to go to the red ones, to catch the sunset. Red dunes are not really red in color. The sand there has a reddish glint, but still is white. However, sunset lights the place on fire and the sand seems red. Its much smaller than white dunes and hence seems crowded. From the top of the dunes, you can see the ocean towards east. The change in color of the sand as the sun sets is quite drastic.

Red dunes

Sun set

Real color of the sand

Sun, lighting it up

Mui Ne is not like the rest of Vietnam. It is not a place to look for culture and cheap food. It is a place to relax, enjoy beer and sea food. It is a place to learn kite surfing or wind surfing. If you want to learn surfing, this is a great place, but you would rather keep at least a week for it then. If you want to just relax and bathe in the sun, a couple of days here are good enough. I loved the place and wanted to stay more, but there was still half the Vietnam left with my budget for the country already exceeding the planned one, and so the next morning I watched the sun rise and left the place to go further north to the ancient town of Hoi An!

Sun rise at the beach