First hitchhiking experience in Laos!

Leaving the beautiful village of Huay Bo behind, I rushed to Luang Prabang once again. From here I wanted to go to South, preferably directly to Vientiane since I had already been to Vang Vieng. But I thought to myself, "Man, I haven't tried hitchhiking yet!" and started looking on internet about it. Soon I found that, Laos is a difficult country to hitchhike in and even more difficult in the North of Laos. But I found a couple of blogs with successful hitchhiking experience and decided that I was up for the challenge.
First step was to get a hitchhiking letter written in local language. So, I quickly wrote a letter in English and asked my guesthouse owner to translate it for me in Lao. She did that happily but while giving it back to me she looked tensed and said "Be careful". I smiled and gave her a sketch I drew as a payment for the favor.

Hitchhiking letter

Well, first mistake I made was to get up at 9 the next morning. Getting ready and packing took some time and by the time I set off on foot it was already 11. Sun had started to shine too brightly. Naturally, I wouldn't get a lift in the heart of the town, so I started walking towards the highway 13. It took good part of an hour in the heat of the day, before I found a spot where vehicles were most likely to notice me. It was a fuel station and hence had good empty place in the front. Plus I thought, vehicles stopping to fuel would notice me and would immediately feel bad for me and I would get a lift! I dropped my bags and waited there.

Waiting time!

Well, I was successful partly, as I was able to attract lot of attention. But most just waved or smiled and some didn't even throw a glance. Many trucks, private cars, bus, moto-bikes passed. None stopped. When one truck stopped, I was really happy, but turned out it had stopped just for unloading whatever it was carrying. Two hours later, dripping sweat, I decided that it would be just five more minutes and then I would go to the bus station and catch a bus instead. And precisely at that moment, I saw a small automobile racing and raised my hand, fist closed and thumb outstretched. Two people in the front seats noticed me and as the car passed me the girl looked back and said something to the guy. I was hoping hard they would stop, my fingers crossed, I was looking at the car intently. And a little distance ahead, the car stopped, took a U-turn and stopped in front of me. Windows rolled down and very friendly couple from Singapore asked me "Where are you going?". I shouted, "South....Vientiane, Vang Vient...I don't know". I approached the car slowly and they said "We are going to Vang Vieng". They both looked at the back seat and said "Well, we need a  little of re-arrangement". And quickly the back seat was emptied of the luggage, and shifted to one side making room for me. I was thrilled, excited and overjoyed. It was my first hitchhiking ever and it was successful! I couldn't believe my luck....still can't.
Their names are Michel and Saylin, both from Singapore and both doing work in animal rescue missions. As the small car raced on the road, slowly I started to notice. I was with a wonderful couple, zooming car with Air Con, comfortable seat,  nice music playing....it was a luxury and not the kind of hitchhiking experience I had imagined it to be. I told this thought to me and both of them started to chuckle. Saylin told me that they were going to try a new road, i.e. taking highway 4 and then joining back to 13 later. As we took the highway 4, first we were greeted by a very very bad road. And everyone started to think if it was a bad experience. It was a dirt road, with big stones everywhere and apparently it was under construction. But this bad patch did not last for long and we were on a proper road again. As the valley opened up, the views were breathtaking. Tall, lush green mountains supported by beautiful rolling hills that looked bluish. Between all this scene was a stretch of beautiful tar road. We stopped for a while to take in the views and felt a gust of wind on our faces before continuing again.

As we hit the road!

The little zoomer!

Rolling hills

Enchanting!

Without any warning, car started to give up. On steep road uphill, it wouldn't climb anymore. The power was receding and with what can be describing as a faithful attempt to continue on, it gave up completely! We were dejected. A small scrutiny and Saylin's Formula 1 knowledge told us that it was a gearbox failure. A couple of calls later, we decided to try again. After a bit of an effort, it started to move again and once again downhill, it was smooth as silk. Our smiles quickly faded as we saw an uphill again and car gave up again. We looked at our options, Spend the night there, get help from somewhere or crawl to the nearest village/town. And we decided the last option. A few calls went through successfully and we got to know that there was a small town called Muong Kasi about 40 kms from where we were and help may be available there. But car going not beyond the mark of 10, it took whole afternoon before we covered about 30 kms and car stopped again. So now we resorted to second option and Saylin called someone who arranged a truck from Kasi. We waited there, at a nice scenic spot with rice fields and watching the sunset behind mountains.

Breakdown!

Brilliant spot for a breakdown

Small bugs started to irritate us and 30 minutes later a big truck showed up with three guys. That was our help! They decided that car may not be repaired there but agreed to drop us to Kasi. So now I was in the back of a truck and the weather was perfect!

Back of the truck

Kasi is a small town and not many travelers there. So people stared at us more curiously than any other places. It was already dark by the time we reached a guesthouse and my heart dropped when the lady told that price for room was $ 12. That would negate any financial benefit I had from hitchhiking! But then I met another traveler. A 68 year old Bob, who was cycling around in Laos. He showed up in the same town coming from Lunag Prabang and probably took the same time to get there as I did . He said he would happy to let me sleep in his room if I had a sleeping bag and once again, I couldn't believe my luck.
It was amazing day of my travel, probably the most amazing. But I was tired as hell and a few beers later, I was fast asleep.

Kasi Village

Next morning, I said goodbye to Bob, who continued on his bike and me on my foot. This time it was early morning and I enjoyed the walk thoroughly. A couple of kilometers, I was out of the town. Once again, I found a fuel station and stopped on the opposite side just in front of a small shop. I waited and waited, once again, all I got was stares or smiles or a wave of hand. The shopkeeper asked me if I would like to sit inside and I thanked him for that. A couple hours later a small truck stopped. I explained him that I had no money and showed him my letter. But he said he will not allow me for free but would charge very nominal amount. So we decided on this nominal amount and I was in the back truck heading to Vang Vieng. I had a hitchhiking companion, a very friendly farmer. After loading the truck with 10 or so packs of vegetables, he got on, sat in front of me and with a wide smile shook my hand. I just said "India" and then we were friends! He talked to me a lot and I did not understand a single thing. But I felt happy and cheerful.

My temporary companion

A couple of hours later I saw the familiar limestone mountains and realised that I was close to Vang Vieng. So after about four hours of sweating on the road, lots of stares and warm smiles, wonderful car and a car break-down, a free night sleep at Kasi and an addition of 3 to my wonderful friends circle, I was not entirely where I planned to be. But I was South of where I started and that was the intention!

In a tiny village of Huay Bo

After saying goodbyes to the Belgian couple and Josette, me, Ilker and Lale took a morning boat to a town called Muang Ngoi. The small boat takes about an hour and costs about $ 3. The short boat ride, though not very comfortable, is very scenic. As the boat anchored at the town, we could see a wide range of river facing guesthouses and were approached by many offering cheap bungalows.

Our boat ride

Muang Ngoi itself is a gorgeous town and really laidback. But it can not be termed as untouched. There is plenty of travelers coming here and naturally wide range of western guesthouses and restaurants have spawned up, reducing the "Authenticity Index" (as Ilker calls it) significantly.

Muang Ngoi

Life in the town

If you are in search of a real village feel, you are better off heading to one of the three villages in the vicinity viz. Ba Na, Huay Bo and Huay Sen. And that is what we decided to do. These villages are accessible on foot. Ba Na is the closest and takes about an hour from Muan Ngoi. Huay Bo and Huay Sen are further 40 minutes each. The road is easy to follow and you will come across Tham Kang cave on the way, one of many caves used as a shelter during war times.

Tham Kang cave

Heading straight from this cave we came across a sign board and decided to follow one directed towards Huay Sen. It took us on a smaller trail off the main dirt road, through thick trees on both the sides. A small wooden bridge allowed us to cross a water stream and we entered what looked like a vast rice field which was recently harvested. A small  village consisting of a few houses could be seen in the distant and we guessed that it was Ba Na.

Trail to the village

Rice fields

We had walked more than an hour till then but it was a beautiful walk, through thick trees, rice fields and water streams! We did not meet anyone after entering the small trail until we met a western girl , who had come for a walk and was returning back to the main town. She informed us that there were snakes all over in the field and looked a bit afraid. After this point, instead of looking at the beautiful scenery all around we kept our eyes on the ground, in search of snakes! But we did not come across any of these reptiles. After crossing the field we met a local guy who directed us to Huay Bo. One more river crossing, this time without a bridge, forced us to take off the shoes and roll our trousers. We walked for 40 minutes more, along the rice fields and mountains, with beautiful sounds of birds and crickets in our ears before we approached the village. The first structure was what looked like a school.

School

Entering the village, we were taken aback by the scene. Small wooden houses on wooden stilts, children running around everywhere, chicken, ducks, pigs, dogs and cats, all living harmoniously in one civilization, the village alive and running with folks busy with their everyday life activities such as cleaning the rice, washing clothes, cutting the wood and so on. And yet village folks carried expressions on their faces which were satisfied, simple and laid back. It was a bunch of happy people and it was a village with a simple life.

A woman weaving clothes

A kid with a bamboo pistol

Houses on stilts

Everyday life

Small alleys

We asked someone about sleeping (using sign language) and were directed to what looked like a small restaurant, a small wooden hall with sloping roofs and bamboo pillars, a handful of tables and chairs. On a wooden wall is wide collection of empty cans of soft drinks arranged carefully, just below a big gun! As we entered the this restaurant a very happy man greeted us. His name is Mr. Keo and he is the village chief. He owns this small restaurant and also a few small wooden rooms which he rents for just $ 1 a night.The rooms are basic, with mattresses on the floor and a mosquito net. The restaurant is run by him and his wife and they have delicious food on offer.

The gun

Mr. Keo, the chief

Smiling face of Mr. Keo led us to our rooms and quickly dropping our stuff and locking the doors, we came out again ready to explore the tiny village! The scene was similar to the one when we entered, but evening had given a little calmness to everything and now things looked less busy and more laid-back. Wherever we went we were greeted by warm smiles and sabaidee's. The whole village looked almost like a film set. It was unreal. Wonderful people, nice evening, cheerful children, abundant livestock....... and the harmony!
That evening we played for a while with kids. Each of them were carrying a small hollow bamboo stick which acted like a gun firing small balls of wet paper. It seemed like an on going battle between two teams and I decided to join one. This little fellow acted as my "ammo-man", supplying me ammo after each shot. After playing with them for half an hour and sweating like hell, it was a time for Photo session! By this time though all the kids had surrounded me and I was sitting on the ground, showing them photographs of my trip till then. They were very keen on seeing the outside world which was evident from the number of children pressing on me trying to get a glimpse of a photo. Finally, Ilker and Lale managed to get their attention for a group photo and we did manage to get some group photographs!

Young guns!

Awesome kid and my ammo man!

Sweaty and tired I said goodbyes to kids and we found our way to the restaurant for dinner. Dinner was fresh roasted chicken with sticky rice and while eating we were wondering if we had seen the same chicken that day! At dinner, I asked Mr. Keo if there is any work that I could help them with and he said he will inform me the next morning. Dinner done, I learnt game of Checkers and then Mr. Keo beat me in that consistently for five times, when with a yawn I decided that it was time for bed.

A game of checkers

The next morning at breakfast, Mr. Keo, who had just returned from hunting, told me that his friend wanted to build a new house and hence was going with his wife to cut bamboo and asked me to help him with this work. I was up for it and I was joined by Lale and Ilker. The bamboo jungle was about 2  kms from the village and once again the path led us through rice fields. They were a happy couple and they immediately offered us a few Pomelo fruits fresh from the tree. Mr. Keo's friend started to work almost immediately and we were not sure how exactly to help him. But after having cut bamboo pieces of equal length he showed us how to convert a bamboo stick into a sort of mat which can be folded and taken back. So we started to labor and soon realised that it wasn't as easy as it looked and also that the bamboo when cut, has sharp edges and handling it too much subjects you to cuts. I got several.

Returning victorious from hunt!

Bamboo cutting session

After two hours or so, the mats were ready, folded and attached to a big bamboo, to enable us to carry them back to village. This turned out to be even more exciting. With Sun at its favorite noon time, heavy loads of bamboo mats on our backs, 2 kms seemed like a long long walk. We had to keep changing the way we held the load every five minutes. We did a great job though and were particularly proud of ourselves as we relieved ourselves of the loads, at the construction site. Sweaty again, it was time for a cool shower. And what better place than bamboo showers in the river stream! Then it was time for checkers again and this time I managed to redeem myself by beating Mr. Keo thrice.
On our last day at the village, I took a small interview of Mr. Keo to understand history about the village and the way it worked, culture and people living there. Mr. Keo looked genuinely happy to tell me everything. The interview was broken by the breakfast and after breakfast it was time to say goodbye to this lovely village and those lovely people.
As we left the village, we were led by a dog which had followed some travelers the previous day from Muang Ngoi to Huay Bo. The dog seemed to know the way and always waited and looked back to make sure we were coming. This time, with the dog leading, we did not have to worry about snakes anymore!

Nong Khiaw: Where the gold flows!

Nong Khiaw, a small village situated near the banks of Nam Ou river has always been a sleepy and non-significant village as far as the tourism is concerned. However, recent mentions about it in various travel blogs and lonely planet; it is finding its way on the famous Banana Pancake Trail that is so famous among the backpackers.  Though situated in Luang Prabang province, the town is more similar to the topmost province of Phongsaly, which is bordered by China and Vietnam.
We met a Belgian couple on the minivan from Luang Prabang and immediately became good friends. As our minivan reached the station and we started to walk to village centre, we were engulfed by the sleepy feel that is so prevalent here. We attracted a few gazes from the shop keepers, repairmen, or locals walking on the street. There was hardly any activity at all. About 15 minutes walk brought us to a bridge which takes you to the other side of the river. The view from the bridge was simply stunning. Never have I seen mountains so vast and so near that they almost look threatening, dominating. These limestone mountains have thick cushion of green vegetation and the river running between these mountains reflect the green tint. There are numerous guesthouses along the river bank offering river side bungalows starting at 50,000 kip a night, supported by handful of restaurants. All accessible by one single street which from one end to another may not be more than 3 kms long. We checked into our rooms and after taking a rest for a while, I set on foot to explore the village. Probably the most beautiful scenery can be seen from the bridge and that’s where I spent most of my first evening, taking pictures, watching the sunset and feeling relaxed!

Nam Ou river

Our guesthouse

River among mountains

The village

Next day, me, Josette and the Belgian couple set off on foot in search of the famous Pha Thok caves. The caves are about 2.5 kms from the bridge. Take the paved road and continue till you see the sign on the ride side of the road. Near a small running stream, there is a shack and a lady sits there with her children from whom you can buy your entrance ticket for 5,000 kip. The cave was used by locals and Lao army as a shelter and also as a meeting/strategy place. A steep staircase takes you to entrance of the cave. Inside, you can see boards indicating what the place was used for e.g. Commander’s officer, meeting room, kitchen etc.

First cave

Even though the cave itself is not that impressive, if you know the history it can be a bit interesting. Also, there is one more cave which is for far more interesting, just about 400 meters from the main cave. This second cave is not very famous and is not marked. Facing the entrance of the main cave, follow a small trail to the left. Continuing on through trees, along the rice fields, there is a small hike to the entrance of this second cave. This too, was used during the war as shelter, but this one is very narrow. The tunnel created has a high ceiling enough for anyone to stand straight, but it’s not wide enough for more than 1 person. At times, you have to crouch and mind your head. It gets really dark inside and without a torch you are likely to get hurt. Also, it is not recommended for people having Claustrophobia.

A very narrow tunnel in the second cave

We went inside quite a long way, before it looked impossible to go further and came out feeling victorious. Before going to the main street, we saw a couple of kids naked in the river with thick goggles covering their eyes and what looked like a small crossbow in their hand, hunting for something. We stood there, watching them for a long time and they acted as if they did not notice us at all. Finally, we reached the conclusion that they were just fishing and continued our walk.

As we walked further and further, the limestone mountains always looming over us, there were fewer houses to see. But wherever there were houses, there were children and these children were always happy to say “Sabaaaideeee” while smiling all the time. We reached a small hut and were asked by a few kids to come in. They did not speak much English and a few of them were wearing a school uniform. We managed to chat a little bit with them and take a few pictures, before turning back towards the town.

Small hut

With local children

After lunch, me, Josette and the Belgian guy decided to trek to a view point, which is the top of a small hill, which gives panoramic view of the surroundings. The entrance is 20,000 kip and trail is easy to follow. The trail is maintained by the village people and it looks like a natural trail, without too much human interference. The best time to go there is sunrise or sunset.
At around 3.30 we started our trek and by that time, the weather had taken a significant twist! It was not sunny anymore and huge grey clouds were hovering in the sky, ready for the shower. As we bought our tickets, the locals warned us about the rain and gave us a stick each in case the trail becomes slippery. With the gloom in the air, excitement levels started to recede. We started the trek in the shade of the clouds, which was fun in the beginning as there was no sun to sweat through. But as we heard lightening and as a first few raindrops reached our faces, Josette decided it was no good going on and decided to turn back. By this time the rain was getting stronger, but I was willing to get wet and continue the trek. As it got really strong, Belgian guy and I reached conclusion that it’s safer to go back before the trail gets slippery. And as we started to turn back, a breeze moved a huge cloud on and bright sun shone upon us, creating a magical moment. The whole world was bright for that moment and beautiful and it was almost as if, sun came out just to tell us to keep going and so we kept going!
To our relief, within next 10 minutes the rain had stopped and the sun was out again, this time for longer, smiling on the landscape. The mountain is not too big and it takes about 2 hours to reach the top, but it’s not really an easy trek. There are patches where it gets a little tough and little tricky. Especially due to brief rains, the dried leaves had fallen in huge amounts, hiding the track. At one point, we reached a flat ground covered in thick jungle and thought that this was the top and worse was, the trail started to go down from here. But continuing on it started to climb up again, before opening on to a small, flat, bare hilltop. As we reached this hilltop, we were already feeling triumphant and when we looked down in the valley, we were simply speechless! For 10 minutes we just stared into the valley, without uttering a word (well, except for a “wow”). Tall mountains loomed everywhere we looked. But there, straight ahead was the Sun, bright orange, tearing the clouds apart and its orange light reflecting off in the snake that was the river. As the sun went a little further down, the river became all aglow! It wasn’t just a river anymore; it was a river of gold! It was as if the molten gold was flowing in huge quantities through a tiny village. The sight was a miracle! Never have I seen such a sight and never will I see such a sight again! After gaining our senses back, we started clicking snaps like mad! As if those few moments were precious ones and we had to somehow capture them in the camera. Difficult part was though feeling satisfied. We kept on clicking photos after photos, always wondering “Can this get any better?”

During the trek

View from top

River of Gold!

As is always the case, sun sinks really fast towards the end and we had rush down the mountain to avoid the darkness. By the time we headed back, the sun had dried up most of the mountain except for a few patches which had become slippery. But we made a good speed and were at the base of the mountain even before the sun set fully. Coming out, tired, sweaty, muddy and dirty, we did not rush to the shower. We instead went to a bar, to enjoy our victory beer!

Next day at lunch, we say a flyer stating that there was going to be a cultural show at a local school at 6 in the evening. We did not do much that day and just relaxed and ate and relaxed! At around 6 however, we rushed to the school and were greeted by little kids wearing make up for their performances. The school is a small and has an open space at the back. A small stage was set here, with handful of chairs, all in the backdrop of an enormous mountain! It was a perfect place for a cultural show. However, the crowd turned out to be more than the expectations of the organizers and the chairs were not enough and soon the whole stage was surrounded by travellers and locals keen to watch the show. The show was a short one and had three performances. Two dances and one singing along with dancing. All the dances, music, instruments, costumes and make up were related to one of the many ethnic minority groups in Laos. The kids performing were 8-10 year olds and were confident. In spite of such a huge crowd of foreigners (“Falangs”), they were hardly nervous. They performed extremely well and to everyone’s surprise, one travellers performed as well. She was wearing a clown’s outfit and make up and made everyone laugh. It turned out to be quite an evening!

Cultural show at the school

City of temples: Luang Prabang

Luang Prabang is about 5-6 hours away from Phonsavan and the road is always winding and hence not so good for those possessing motion sickness. Our minibus arrived to the Southern station and immediately, tuk-tuk drivers were upon us. Finally settling for 10,000 kip a person, pack of travelers crowded in the small vehicle. Within 15 minutes, we were dropped neat what looked like a starting point of night market.
Luang Prabang, historically an important town (and once, capital of Laos), lost its place during many wars that were fought in the country. But it always had heritage in the form of temples, pagodas and monastery. A decade ago it looked as if the town was going down the drain, but due to constant government efforts and recognition by UNESCO as a world heritage, this little town came back to life, supporting itself on tourism.
It is situated between and around two rivers viz. mighty Mekong and a smaller Nam Khan, which are united near the town. Like many other towns in South East Asia, this one also has a visible French connection. The streets are lined neatly by posh french villa and cafes. From night market, many streets run parallel to each other and meeting a street along the Mekong river. All lined by guesthouses, which actually are old houses modified to meet backpacker's requirements.

French Alley

Along the river, there are many river-side bars and restaurants where you can enjoy an evening meal. But if you want something cheap, head further near the night market where a fresh grilled fish can cost between 20,000 Kip to 50,000 Kip depending on the size. There is also an alley where you can buy a vegetarian buffet plate just for 10,000 kip!

Fresh Grilled Fish!

Vegetarian Buffet, just for 10,000 kip

The night market is filled with red topped tents and selling clothes, souvenirs, bracelets and many other things. It was one of the biggest night markets I had seen till then. Its a paradise for those who want to get rid of excess kips, but be sure to bargain.

Lamps at Night Market

Night market

The town is filled with many temples and monasteries and its advisable to visit at least a few. Most of the temples have an entrance ticket costing around 20,000 kip.
In the evening, after eating a nice fish, I continued my walk along the Mekong's edge. The tall trees provided canopy along the road and a light breeze from the river made it a nice weather for walking.

Walking along the Mekong

Where two rivers meet

Towards the end, before the two rivers meet, I came across the biggest and oldest monastery in town, called Vat Xieng Toung. As I bought the ticket and entered the monastery I could hear bells and prayers and I followed the sound. The sound led me to a very small chamber closed from all sides and inside I could see a few monks playing traditional instruments and singing a prayer, an evening prayer. For 15 minutes it went on, creating an immense silence outside as if whole world was listening to those prayers. A few more tourists crowded around this chamber to get a glimpse of the monks or to just stand there and listen to the smooth music, that was the prayer. As the prayer finished, the monks quickly locked the chamber and went to their living quarters. I wandered to the main structure of in the monastery, a temple. The temple is one of the grandest in Laos, with huge multiple roofs, almost touching the ground, sculptures of dragons and peacocks on top, golden plates fitted into the wood, gleaming brightly as the sun-rays bounced off them. I entered inside the temple and looked into the calm face of golden Buddha. I realised that there were many Buddha statues inside of different sizes, all in gold. The painting inside the temple tells life story of Buddha and his enlightenment. A big circular bell was hung on the right side of entrance, which looked as if it will be used only during important ceremonies and festivals. I spent some time inside meditating and came out to see other smaller temples in the monastery. There were at least 5 more temples, much smaller than the grand temple and one golden chamber which contained a cart used for death ceremonies.

The main temple

Buddha

A few more temples outside

A chamber for death ceremonies

I came out of the temple with enough time for sunset and turning a corner headed to another important sight, which is Phou Si Hill. Not very steep, it has two sets of stairs to take you to the top. In between, there are many Buddha statues and a small chamber which has a Buddha's foot print. The hill top has a stupa and gives panoramic view of the sprawling city below. The hill is crowded by locals and travelers alike, mostly at the time of sunrise or sunset.

Steep steps to the hill

Buddha's foot print

Sunset from the top

Sprawling Luang Prabang

I spent more days in this city than intended. Though there are many things to do here, its a nice place to just relax as well. Cafes and bars provide lot of opportunities to fill your stomach with delicious food and nice guesthouses allow you to relax and rejuvenate. After spending a few nights here, I was ready for an adventure once again!