Thursday, January 23, 2014

Cu Chi Tunnels, War Remnants Museum and Pham Ngu Lao street

Cu Chi village became world famous when tunnels built by the North Vietnamese soldiers during during the Vietnam war were discovered. The tunnels are a maze under ground ranging about 250 KMs. It has military quarters, meeting rooms, surgical rooms and also some booby traps. Surrounding area which used to thrive proudly with dense vegetation, now only has thin and small trees, one of the effects of Agent Orange used by US forces, when the entire land became dead.

The tunnels are divided in two segments, Ben Dinh and Ben Duoc. Ben Dinh is a touristy segment with tunnels specifically made for tourists, while Ben Duoc has the original tunnels and very less tourists. Bus to Cu Chi village from Saigon costs VND 7,000 and onward to Ben Duoc costs VND 6,000. Entrance ticket is VND 90,000 which includes an English-speaking guide.

My bus left Saigon and within an hour I was in the country-side. Rice fields appeared on both the sides only to be hidden by a few coconut trees or small houses.  There was a series of hammocks with a few people sleeping quietly. An odd dog would appear, trotting on the middle of the road, only to scurry away off the road to avoid the bus.
Being the only foreigner on the bus, I had no idea where to get down. But the bus conductor came to the rescue when he asked me to get down. The bus stopped exactly at the entrance of Ben Duoc site. The entrance is lined by a few small shops selling food. As I entered the site, I had a green canopy of trees to hide me from strong afternoon sun, a sign that effects of agent orange are receding now and the earth is coming back to life again!
A clear tar road led me to the tunnels entrance and I caught the first glimpses of remnants from war. Guns, Missiles and Bomb shells.

Blast from the past

Remnants
At ticket checking counter a few guides in Khakee were relaxing. A friendly guide approached with a smile and asked me to read the rules first, which included warnings for patients with heart diseases or bad physical conditions. As we entered the forest, the guide started explaining history about the Vietnam war and led me to a small shed with a few chairs and TV in the center. He asked me to sit down and started a black and white video recorded in 70s. It was a typical propaganda video, explaining how the Americans destroyed once prospering town of Cu Chi.

Guide explaining the model of the underground tunnels
As the video got over, I was joined by two Japanese students. Our guide led three of us further inside the forest, stopping to show a few bomb craters created by B52, an original entrance of tunnel and a death trap created for the enemy with bamboo.
A Bomb crater
The Japanese guy trying to fit in the original tunnel entrance

A death trap made from Bamboo
Entering the actual tunnels gave a different perspective the Vietnamese people. It showed the struggle they went through and the perseverance they showed. With only hand tools they created a circle of life underground. And it was not just the physical work. It involved detailed plan and brain power. It allowed Vietnamese to attack the enemy from anywhere they wanted and disappear within a blink of an eye. The tunnels had escape plans and well positioned booby traps. Three levels: First, a larger one to be used when enemy is not bombing the field, second a smaller, you can't stand straight in it and third, made for massive bombing, where you can only crawl.
Our guide asked us to go through one small tunnel and to meet him outside, warning that, in case if we miss the first turn, we may never see each other again. As we started the crawl, bats started taking off at our approach and soon, our thighs began to hurt. Living inside became unthinkable!

A surgical room

Tactical meeting room (it had booby traps on all corners)

A booby trap inside

A tunnel

To give you perspective about the size
Coming out, we were offered a snack, Sweet potato like root with crushed peanuts, daily food for the soldiers during war. With an empty belly, the root tasted like heaven!

Our snack
As I bid farewell to my guide, I was approached by a huge group of Vietnamese tourists, which looked like a family who might have come there to enjoy the weekend. I had to take a photo with everyone before they finally let me go!

I left the place, with a new respect for the Vietnam and its folks.

The next morning, I went to the War Remnants museum (Entrance fees: VND 15,000). The museum hosts a few choppers, jets, tanks, missiles and other arms used during the war. But the main attraction are the photos inside, taken by various photographers in the battlefield. Many of these did not survive the war and there are a few sections dedicated to those who contributed the most.
The pictures present not only the brutality of the war and its effect on common people, but also life of the soldiers on both the sides. It shows the sorrow in the eyes of kids and a mother, pictures of villagers just before being shot, American soldiers wounded during the war, condemnation of war by the world and still a seemingly never-ending war.
Museum left a few chills on my nerve and my walk back to hostel was dazed.
A tank used during the war

A career/transportation plane

A war remnant

War posters

War posters/photos

Condemnation of war

Comparison of Vietnam war with other wars, quite unbelievable!
Pham Ngu Lao street is probably the most happening street in Saigon. Its full of restaurants and pubs, lined on each side. Backpackers and locals, alike, flock the street. And there are street food sellers and hawkers. Smell of beer, tobacco and marijuana is always in the air. As I sat there with a Korean friend enjoying a mug of local drought beer, at least a dozen vendors came to us asking to buy something, an offer, which we always so graciously declined. Backpackers passed by, searching for their hostels or hotels. A few Germans sat behind, cheering with each mug of beer. And there were always at least a few dozen moto-bikes.
The atmosphere was something very close to celebrations!





Wednesday, January 22, 2014

Saigon- a Buzzing city

Ho Chi Minh city (earlier known as Saigon) is a bustling establishment in the South of Vietnam and it is Vietnam's old capital. On the way to the hotel during night, city seemed to be vibrant. Blinking signboards on glass buildings patronizing the company they belonged too, endless number of helmets swimming through the crowd, cars moving at a slow pace and trying to find a way through the sea of motor-bikes, street hawkers shouting and seeking attention of passersby to sell fruits, cola, spring rolls, rice, breads etc., local families crowding on small stools on the road-side, eating their dinner or enjoying a cold drink.

Next day, a map in hand, I set off to see the city. Every corner a Motorcycle taxi would stop and start shouting at me for the ride or a cyclo driver would ask me where i wanted to go. Determined to do the whole city tour on foot I always ignored them. The streets are full off hawkers and smell of Vietnamese food and there is always someone eating on the side of the street, no matter what the time of the day was. Some locals would just stare at me for a long time and some would greet with a welcoming smile and nod of the head.
A Typical street in Saigon
The weather was nice, odd clouds gave some respite from the tropical sun. Reaching the Independence Palace, which was closed, I headed down the same street to see the famous Church, Notre Dame Cathedral, on the way meeting a Canadian girl. The French era built church is a red structure with a lady facing outward, overlooking a tall modern building. Inside of the church is like any other church. The significance is the age of the building as it was built in a French colonial Vietnam.

French Architecture within


The Church is next to the post office, which is a tourist attraction in itself. As you enter the post office, there are souvenir shops on both the sides. Inside, is a ever moving crowd of tourists and others with a purpose of sending a post or two to their family or friends.

With noon sun just passing over head, we had some Vietnamese lunch before going to the Independence Palace. The palace, also known as reunification palace served as the presidential house of the South Vietnamese government, before its fall at the hands of North Vietnam. The palace is huge and rich with architecture, paintings, furniture and a Mercedes. It has residential complexes where top government officials might have resided. In the basement is the bunker used as a security measure as well as a strategic decision making center, housing numerous maps and offices of military personnel. The top section has a helipad and a replica of a chopper used by the president in those days. The terrace allows the view of the surrounding gardens and the modern Ho Chi Minh City.
Underground bunker in the palace

For rescue missions

From the top of the palace

Palace building
After the palace, we strolled to the river-side. As the evening fell, two streets on each side of the river Saigon came alive, the lights dancing on the river water and head lamps of the numerous bikes racing away. Constant cool breeze from the river helped our tired legs as we headed back to the city center, to the Park 23/9.
River Saigon
The part is one of the biggest I have ever seen where locals from Saigon come to exercise, to sit, to chit-chat, to spend some family time. Park is full of beautiful trees and chirping birds. It has an energetic feel. As we sat there, a group in black started practicing Vietnamese version of Kung Fu, a combination of physical exercises and meditation-like activities. As the practice progressed the intensity of exercise increased too and the flexibility and strength shown by the kids was quite awe-inspiring.
Kung practice, which included walking on hands
We were caught by a group of Vietnamese students who wanted to practice English by chatting to foreigners. Soon, the group started to increase before it became unmanageable. Most of them did not even know each other. It was a different experience to understand what they were doing, their ambitions and their perspective about the outside world.

As I said goodbye to the Canadian friend, I realised what traveling is all about. Meeting new people, spending time with them, bonding with them and then never seeing them again!



Monday, January 20, 2014

Renting a vehicle in Mongolia


Mongolia is a vast nation, with not so much population and not a very good road system. Roads connect only main cities. Public transportation is available but not in abundance and does not connect all the parts. If you really want to travel to Mongolia, it is essential to find a vehicle and a driver (note, you cannot drive in Mongolia, unless you have a Mongolian driving license and this rule is for your own  safety, so do not think about bypassing it). Also, it is essential that vehicle is a good one which can take on the absence of roads in Mongolia, preferably a 4WD.
Before travelling to Mongolia, I did a lot of research on hiring a vehicle and I know how confusing it can be. So I thought of putting some information and a few tips here and hope it is useful to other travellers.

Following are the average costs quoted by different travel agencies to me for a decent 4WD or a Russian Van:

Vehicle rental per day: USD 80-100
Driver’s salary: USD 15
Driver’s food and accommodation: USD 10 (You can negotiate this with driver)
Fuel: USD 1-1.5 per Litre and any vehicle needs between 15-20 litres per 100 kms

So the conclusion is that it is quite expensive and not affordable for most of travellers, unless the group is big.

But when I actually went there, I was surprised the ease with which we found a driver and a vehicle for a very cheap cost (may not be always that easy). We found a driver just strolling through the town of Tsetserleg. An owner of a 4WD approached us and asked us if we would like to hire him. Within half an hour’s of negotiations, following was the agreement:

Vehicle rental: None (No agency involved, car was owned by the driver himself)
His salary and food: USD 25 per day
Fuel: As per the distance

So, we ended up removing the rental from our costing entirely and this is what you can do too.

1. Do not approach a rental agency directly
2. Wait in the town/city for at least a couple days to find a driver. Be patient.
3. There are always a few drivers roaming around in Mongolia and can approach you or you can approach them
4. If they ask for rental, refuse and pay salary, food and accommodation instead. You can give him a USD 5 more and he will be happy.
5. Ask around to locals or other travelers if they know a driver. If there are any expats or travelers who have settled in Mongolia, they would surely know one.

Advantages of having a vehicle:
1. Total flexibility. Go where you want, when you want. Change the plan whenever you want.
2. Usually driver knows the roads and has a lot of mechanical experience too and hence you do not have to worry about breakdowns (our car did not break down a single time in spite of so many warnings given on internet)
3. You can camp in the middle of nowhere. That is what its all about!
4. The costing turns out to be very cheap if you don’t go through an agency
5. Usually drivers are good singers :)
6. Ask around at your guesthouse for travelers to join you. More the people, lesser the cost per head.

Hope this helps you..I am looking for the contact of the driver we hired and will update it as soon as possible.

Edit: Finally I am back home and was able to find the driver's contact. Here's the picture of his visiting card. I am sorry it took so long.



Cheers!

Wednesday, January 15, 2014

From one lake to another

Our main destination was going to the great Khuvsgul lake, one of the largest fresh water lakes in the world...its situated in northern Mongolian near the Russian border.
Having done a small hike in the morning on nearby hills, we left before noon...clear sky and the young sun meant that weather was comfortably warm..we had to say goodbye to two German girls and the French girl and our group was once again down to four.
Mongolian Breakfast

Saying goodbye to our hosts
It was a long journey ahead of us, of at least 300 kms and considering the lack of any roads, we decided to split it in two days..we set off with our bellies empty hoping to find some lunch on the way..however for next four hours we did not come across any civilisation..natural beauty surrounding helped us to forget the constant hunger, but finally our driver decided to take the matters in his own hands..we stopped besides a fresh and clean stream of water...and our driver started cooking! We had the most amazing meal of Yak meat, stream water, salt and rice before setting off again...that was the first time we saw funny side of our driver and a few smiles on his face..




Our driver cooking Yak

The stream


With bellies full, our mood was relaxed and the Mongolian music was playing on the radio..the same song would repeat again and again for the rest of the journey we sang along with our driver breathing in the Mongolian country-side..at around 7 PM, we came across the first ger camp and decided to rest there for the night instead of taking risk of spending the night out in the open.
The next morning was as any other mornings in the Mongolian country-side...sheep grazing away the abundant grass, a few birds chirping around and a distant sound of cutting wood..we set off for Lake Khuvsgul, but soon stopped at a small town for no apparent reason...our driver went to meet his police friend and we used this time to convert some currency and take a few snaps of locals...locals are always curious about outsiders since there are not many this country...they chatted with us and spoke a few words in Mongolians and we all shared some good laugh..
Just another morning in Mongolia


The Town

Locals chatting

A Lone horseman


Awww
Our driver was in special mood that day having consumed adequate amount of Vodka and the afternoon again went quick with Mongolian music...we reached a town called Murun, which turned out to be his hometown and stopped at his place for light snacks and some Mongolian goat tea.
Our driver and his son
Hatgal is a small village situated at the starting point of lake Khuvsgul  and the driver’s mother owns a ger camp there..we entered the ger camp to be welcomed by warm smile of an elderly woman, with wrinkled face and shining eyes..keeping the luggage in the ger allocated to us, we set off to explore the town and the lake...
Hatgal


Seemingly another ghost town
There was a profound sense of lack of activity to this town..especially due to the off-season..the town consist mainly of ger camps and hotels and very few locals stay after end of August..there were no tourists, not even many Mongolians and it looked like a ghost town..as we reached the lake and checked our map, we realised that the great expanse of the water ahead was only one tip of the lake..it was hard to imagine the size of lake...we came across more horses and cattle than humans before reaching what looked like a ship dock...we were approached by a boatman who offered to take us on a ride on his speed-boat to an island in the lake..our company increased by two with a Chinese traveller and his guide joining us.
The boat sped on the water jumping every now and then in the air, leaving behind jets of water bubbles...the boatman, with his unchanging cold face stared ahead..only to move his lips to let out a puff of smoke from the cigarette..soon, there was only water on all the sides with no shore visible and that was when we realised the size of that lake..it was ocean-like...
The tip of the huge lake
We reached the island, jumped out the boats and were instructed by the boatman to climb a small rocky cliff..the view from the top of the cliff was exquisite and snowy mountains in the distant and the huge lake below...i was tempted to jump down just to feel the purity of the water, but decided against it.
I climbed down the cliff and went to the shore to sit...others were still on the top clicking photos and the time was right for meditation...odd wind carried small waves of water to the shore, kissing the pebbles..making a soothing sound...our boat swayed with the water, as if enjoying the movement...a seagull like bird decided it was time to take it to the air, flapping its wings...and my heart breathing lungful of purest air on this planet.
Lake Khuvsgul

Colors

At the lake

Cliff

Our boat and the boatman

This was actually a bar...deserted bar

No beer flowing there...


The boat took us back to Hatgal and night fell before we set off to find our ger camp..we lost our way..found it..lost again and found it again...and finally were glad to see the familiar wrinkled face beaming from the door...we entered our ger and the wrinkled face appeared again, this time with our dinner...only means of communication then, were the eyes glittering with fire-light and the smile...it conveyed that the woman cared about four total strangers and had opened her heart to welcome them to her home..